Cool and the Counterculture: 1960–79

In the 1960s and 1970s, to be cool was to be antiauthoritarian and open to new ideas from young cultural leaders in rock and roll, journalism, film, and African American culture. Cool was a badge of opposition to “the System,” by turns a reference to the police, the government, the military-industrial complex, or traditional morality. Using drugs such as marijuana or even LSD was an indicator of risk taking and expanding one’s consciousness; not experimenting with drugs suggested a fear of opening one’s mind or perspective, of being “uptight” or “square.” The same was true of sexual exploration, social protest, and ethnic politics. The aesthetic of stylized understatement still held power, yet cool itself morphed under the era’s social upheavals. The counterculture valued being authentic and emotionally naked: being cool meant a person was “out-front” with others and comfortable in his or her own skin. For African Americans, what had once been suppressed under the mask of cool transformed into defiant civic engagement in music, sports, and politics. “Cool” meant to communicate a set of emotions without losing control, and rock and roll was the art form (and forum) best suited for this shift, especially for women. Patti Smith, Bonnie Raitt, Deborah Harry, and Chrissie Hynde all carved out new iconic stances, styles, and voices for independent women who were sexy on their own terms. Cool became the supreme compliment for creative public figures who broke new cultural ground and maintained their personal integrity over time.




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Muddy Waters 1913–1983
Charles H. Stewart (born 1927)
Gelatin silver print, c. 1960
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Steve McQueen 1930–1980
William Claxton (1927–2008)
Gelatin silver print, 1962
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Jimi Hendrix 1942–1970
Linda McCartney (1942–1998)
Platinum print, 1967 (printed later)
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Joan Didion born 1934
Julian Wasser (born 1943)
Gelatin silver print, 1970
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Deborah Harry born 1945
Robert Mapplethorpe (1946–1989)
Gelatin silver print, 1978
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